David Bedu has never had any doubts: PANK bulangeria would use only sourdough starter. The leavening takes longer, of course, but the result is a hundred times better. The bread tastes like bread and is extremely digestible because only sourdough starter can transform phytic acid – present in bran and therefore in all wholemeal and semi-wholemeal flours – and prevent bloating. The bread rises naturally. But David Bedu didn’t stop here and put the same care and attention into his choice of flours. They are stoneground or not and all are traceable. He devoted time and energy to finding small mills that not only grind the cereals, but cultivate them too. Each mill has a story and a genuine relationship, built over time. From baguettes, even perfumed with curry, to the traditional breads and the most exquisitely French dessert pastries like the choux and eclair, David Bedu’s shop is a joy to behold. Then when you take that first bite, happiness explodes with flavour.